The inside story: Cotton and Steel Dress


“Come March, we’re asking you to show us your guts, and make your inside as pretty as the outside!” The Monthly Stitch.

This month for The Monthly Stitch theme we are challenged to show off the inside of our sewing project with lovely finishes and techniques. I am a bit of a perfectionist so the insides of my garments are usually finished very neatly.  I selected  Butterick Pattern #6090  for my example and took a few pictures of how I routinely finish the “guts” of my outfits.


There is a bit of a back-story about this dress and fabric. First of all, I bought a kit from Craftsy which contained 3 yards of Cotton and Steel luxurious cotton fabric and a pattern from Green Bee for a dress cut totally on the bias. While working through the muslin, I realized that I really didn’t care for the style of the dress, even after modifying it to fit me. I didn’t even bother with the skirt part.


Green Bee bias cut dress. Too frumpy!

I switched to the Butterick pattern that buttons down the front, has a pleated skirt, side pockets, and a neckline design element. I cut the neckline design element from a blue silk (too small) dress. I did not use the neck facings as I wanted it to be light and scarf-like. I roll-hemmed the outer edge of the silk instead. I did line up the fabric design so that the dandelions would match, but I forgot about the overlap of the front, and so they didn’t match up after all. But I think the pattern is so busy that it doesn’t bother the eye.IMG_0196

The side seams are serged and then press open. Where seams cannot be serged, I use pinking sheers. The silk is serged neatly to the bodice, and the waist is sewn, then serged, and press up. The front bands are faced with a woven 100% fusible cotton interfacing. The inside edge is serged together with the interfacing for a neatly finished edge. I pressed the seam allowance toward the bands and then under-stitched close to the sewn edge. This helps the facing turn to the inside very neatly.

IMG_0048 IMG_0050










I marked all of the buttonholes when I was cutting out the pattern, so I knew just where to put them. The buttons are from my stash. I was surprised to find 10 buttons that all matched, but several looked worn around the edges. I flipped the buttons over and found that they were all a nice dark blue color. I used that side.












My buttonholes turned out beautifully and uniformly. I sewed the buttons on very carefully with my machine, first diagonally into two holes and then again diagonally into the other two holes. Finally, I serged the bottom of the dress and then machine hemmed the dress with the blind stitch!

IMG_0191During the final fitting, I lengthened the back darts to take in the extra fabric that appeared. I made bias tape for the armholes and sewed it so the outside edge would frame the silk.

IMG_0189I really like how it turned out and I am so thrilled to be wearing something made with Cotton and Steel fabric. When I make this pattern again, I’m going to cut a size smaller through the bodice and blend out to the next size through the waist. The roomy armholes and the extra fabric through the back may be resolved by doing that.

IMG_0209Happy Sewing, Friends!


About SeamQueen

Seamstress, Sewist, Artist, Fashionista, Quilter, Upcycler, Textile Obsessed!
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20 Responses to The inside story: Cotton and Steel Dress

  1. lovelucie1 says:

    What fabulous fabric! You did right to change your mind and go with the second dress. There’s definitely something more youthful about the second. It looks lovely on you. I’m a nutter for the insides too. Otherwise I feel I’m wearing too much of a homemade frock; which of course, it is!

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Sherry says:

    What a lovely dress, and so flattering on you! I love the way you think outside of the box. I would never have thought of using the silky blue fabric the way you did. It makes the dress so unique and even more feminine. Your posts are always so inspiring to me.

    Liked by 1 person

    • zibergirl says:

      Thank you, Sherry. How flattering to be able to inspire someone. It was hard a first to cut into the silk dress, but the alternative would have been to donate it. I still have plenty of silk left too!


  3. Thimberlina says:

    Stunning! So much more stylish than the pattern Craftsy chose! The contrast works really well too ✂️😀✂️

    Liked by 1 person

  4. sewmanju says:

    This is so cute on you. The contrast yokes just set things off perfectly.

    Liked by 1 person

  5. zibergirl says:

    Thank you so much!

    Liked by 1 person

  6. elaineoc says:

    Gorgeous fabric. It really puts me in the mood for spring! I think you definitely made the right choice picking that style.

    Liked by 1 person

  7. prttynpnk says:

    Ok, everytime I’m sold on this pattern, I think it looks milkmaid-esque. Then you did this! Its now a keeper and I’m already thinking about my fabric choices. Lovely work.

    Liked by 1 person

  8. You did a wonderful job, I love the yoke! Very nice contrasting touch with the added belt as well.

    Liked by 1 person

  9. This is so cute and I would have never noticed that the fabric didn’t match. Love your buttons and this style on you 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    • zibergirl says:

      I learned that you have to match at the center front line, not on the sewing line. Maybe next time it will matter. This time is turned out fine. I like that the back side of the buttons worked out. Thanks for complimenting!


  10. Amanda says:

    It’s gorgeous! I love the complimentary blue with it.

    Liked by 1 person

  11. This dress is so beautiful & inspiring – just like your blog. I’m sorry we didn’t get to meet up in Puyallup . Next time we’ll plan a more formal meet up – I’m hoping for a next time how about you ? I’d love to hear your impressions & of pare classes . Email me if you’d like to chat.
    Thanks & thanks again for my RTW Fast button 😄😄😄😄

    Liked by 1 person

    • zibergirl says:

      It would have been nice to meet up with you all. I agree, next time we’ll have to formalize it. It was a little overwhelming for me, but I enjoyed it immensely. I took the business class and the bra making class, and saw one of the fashion shows. Then I wondered around, and around! I certainly would like to go next year. Thanks for the nice compliment. 🙂


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