Sewing Pattern — Dress 4080 Pattern Test *bc2014
For clarification purposes, I will make up a muslin and work through the steps. I learn what I need to do on the muslin, and then apply that knowledge to the actual garment.
Every new pattern that a seamstress sews, should always be made up in a muslin first. This way, any unfamiliar design features can be tried and the fit can be adjusted. You will then be able to cut into your apparel fabric with confidence. This is an example of my process:
for Lekala Sewing Pattern 4080.
Recommended fabric: natural or mixed well draping silk, or silk like.
You will also need: blind zipper for side, bias tape, interfacing
If the pattern has double contour the seam allowances are included. Seam allowance: on hem 2 cm, all other seams 1 cm. Seam allowances are NOT included by default and need to be added when laying out and cutting details if your pattern has single contour.
Attention! First of all please print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 cm) to see how much fabric you will need. Don’t forget to take into account pieces to be duplicated or cut on a fold.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must coincide.
(On the pattern pieces, “beam” means straight of grain. Lay out your pieces accordingly. Some pieces will be cut on the fold. This is noted on the pattern piece. Mark all notches and other design features such as darts, pleats etc. from the pattern onto your fabric.)
Darts: The fold of the dart is always pressed toward the center of your garment, or down toward the hem.
1. Bodice front – cut 2
2. Right front skirt – cut 1 3. Left front skirt – cut 1 4. Bodice back – cut 2
5. Back skirt – cut 2
6. Back neckline facing — cut 1
Back neckline facing; two strips of length and width of bodice front self-facings.
1. Apply fusible interfacing to neck facing, and along self-facing of bodice fronts. Serge outer edges.
2. Sew darts on back bodice. Press darts to center seam. Sew center back seam. Serge the seam and press toward left. Sew together skirt backs. Serge the seam and press toward left side. Sew bodice back and skirt back together. Serge the seam and press it downwards.
3. Clip into seam allowance at notches on front bodice sections « 2 », turn inside and topstitch.
4. With self-facing on left bodice open, pin together left bodice and left front skirt and match the section between round markers. Sew this section, continue to sew across opened front bodice self-facing.
5. Sew center front seam of skirt. Serge and press the seam.
6. With self-facing on right bodice open, gather between round marks at the seam line. Match the given length with section « 3 ». Turn the facing back and topstitch gathers onto it. Sew right front skirt to bodice with gathers lining up with section « 3 » on skirt.
7. Place one into another, as shown in the picture. The right front bodice gathered section goes down into left front bodice opening and the left front skirt gathers go up into opening of right front bodice. Tack front center skirt pleat to inside.
(I should have gathered along the seam line and not exactly between round markers. Next time!)
8. Sew the section from the side seam of bodice to the first notch on left part of the front bodice.
9. Sew the neck facing to the back neck. Clip into curves, Press seam allowance toward facing. Understitch.
10. Sew shoulder seams, opening out both front self-facings and neck facing and sew in one seam. Press and turn.
11. Cut (or use ready) bias tape of 4 cm wide and as long as the armhole + 5см. Fold bias tape in half lengthwise wrong sides together and press. Sew the bias tape along edge of the armhole on the right side. Turn bias tape onto wrong side and press. Topstitch on the front side.
12. Serge edges of left side seam separately. Sew left side seam together, leaving an opening for zipper between triangle notches. Press apart the seam. Sew in zipper.
13. Sew the right side seam. Serge the seam and press it to back part. Make barred ends near side seam at the armhole level.
14. Turn lower edge of the garment twice inside at 1 cm and topstitch.
Pattern Test in cotton muslin. *Barbara Carlon 3/4/14