Preparations for More Hawthorns

I took a sewing lesson on Craftsy for fitting a muslin and I have been practicing. First, I decided to make a muslin and adjust it to fit as I had learned. “Sew the Perfect Fit” by Lynda Maynard guides you through every step and demonstrates how to adjust the muslin on several different body types.

After you decide on the pattern size according to your bust measurement, (if you are full busted, use your above the bust measurement) sew up a muslin using just the back and front bodice. Lynda’s method is to mark and then  actually sew guide lines into the muslin for a true horizontal and vertical positioning of the garment.

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Once on the body, cut slashes along the guide lines where it is necessary to create a comfortable fit. Pin in strips of another color fabric to fill in the space.

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Once this is done, baste strips in place so that they don’t move around. Take measurements of the width and length of the additional fabric that you added. You can also pinch out extra fabric where needed. Transfer all of the measurements to your paper pattern by cutting vertically and horizontally using the hinge method. Add or subtract fullness as needed. Of course Lynda explains it and demonstrates it better than I can. Her tutorial is very informative.

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Cut the pattern horizontally and vertically, But leave the corner attached to form a hinge. Move the pattern the amount needed according to the measurement. Tape paper underneath, and true up the seams that have been skewed.

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I added the sleeves and peplum to the bodice to check the fit

Finally, with a new pattern made especially for me, I cut a Hathorn blouse out of the sheerest fabric I’ve ever sewn with. I should have used french seams throughout for a cleaner finished look, but I settled for serging most of the seams. I did French seam the sleeves under the arms as that would be the most visible.

Not all the seams in the Hawthorn are 5/8 in., so beware. The neck seam and facing seams are all 1/4 in. This caught me off guard as my stay-stitching was more than 1/4 in. and I had to unpick it later.

My blouse turned out beautifully! I’m very pleased with the fit.

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To continue learning more about fit, I made two more muslins for two daughters. Both are full-busted, but one is a size 4 and other a size 12.

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New muslin on the left made from the fitted muslin on the right.

As we were all meeting up in Tahoe for a family vacation, I took my sewing gear, and practiced the slash and add fabric on the muslins that I had prepared according to their bust measurements.

The Family Vacay in Tahoe

The Family Vacay in Tahoe

At home, I transferred the changes to the paper pattern, made new clean patterns, and cut two new muslins. One I sent to my daughter in Arizona and the other will be fitted next week when I visit my daughter in Redwood City.  The girls have already selected their fabrics, so once I get the final fitting done, I’ll be sewing them up.

Thanks for visiting!

About SeamQueen

Seamstress, Sewist, Artist, Fashionista, Quilter, Upcycler, Textile Obsessed!
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3 Responses to Preparations for More Hawthorns

  1. I enjoyed reading this so informative I have long struggled with how to actually fit my muslins properly. And your final product is lovely!

    Like

  2. Anny says:

    You are SO talented, Zibergirl!!

    Like

  3. judy says:

    Fantastic job on fitting your Hawthorne blouse..It is beautiful.. Love it.

    Like

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